Now with some CR 31 Keihin. CB900F cams. CBR 600 coils. CB900F oil pump, cooler and pan.
Rear shocks just rebuild by Works Performance. Front corks upgraded with Race Tech Cartridge Emulators.
Front brakes are CBX 1000 ProLink rotors and calipers.
Front and rear wheels are stock design Comstar. Front is a little wider (CBX1000) yet Comstar. Rear is also Comstar (like these wheels, spoked) but widened from stock width of 2.5 to 5.5 with wider tire accompanying wheel (170/60/18).
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
The Catch Can Bottle ? Those are sold at major performance parts shops online, like JEGS, SUMMIT ( the 2 I know have it)
If you have the stock carburetors together with the stock air filter housing then this Crankcase Ventilation Bottle would be an improvement because although the stock carbs have within the stock air filter (factory air filter housing) provisions for the crankcase hoses to hook up, those factory provisions re direct crankcase saturated hot and oily fumes into your carburetors. not great.
If you use pod filters ( no factory air filter housing) then the right thing to do is to use one of these bottles (any brand you like, but a vented bottle) because your crankcase ventilation hoses would have no way to hook up to the pod filter units.
That would not be advisable anyway, ( hooking your crankcase hoses directly onto pod filters) you would not want to send hot, oily misty dirty saturated air into your carbs which need cool, clean flow of air.
By using this CR set up, I have no choice. Well, there are two other options. I would not recomend either.
One option would be to hang the hoses off the bottom of frame. That would allow moisture, dirt and grim into engine block. The engine releases hot saturated air through hoses but it also sucks in clean air, any air mass exiting block has to be replaced by air entering block.
So bare open hoses is not a good proposition.
The most common option used is just hooking breather filters to the hoses or engine block nipples. that is better than open hoses, off course, but not good enough.
The engine can expell saturated air and inhale cleaner air, that is for sure, but the oily mist is just spread outside the filter making a mess around it. The worst part of that filter hook up to end of hose is that the oily mist collects upon filter clogging it up, rendering it clogged up soon.
The Bottle has a baffle plate and the air filter is located away from direct spray, so mist collects and oil drips onto bottom of can, can which has a valve that allows emptying of bottle every few months, keeping filter in good condition for way more time. No need to take bottle off, quick release valve at bottom makes it as easy as opening your faucett.
I investigated 2 Honda owners that did this work, so I followed suit, they were not wrong.
Stock swingarm. Sprocket, and all. Only mod was the rear caliper stopper bar, which is tubular in the stock 750. Needed a bar made of flat metal to clear tire. Same location, same mounting points. An aluminum bar ($5 bucks at Home Depot). made it happen.
Rear Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit. Similar to my kit, only numbers differ. All 750's, 900's and 1100's had same rear master cylinders. I can claim, therefore, my 750 has indeed a 1100F rear brake system :)
Got it widened with "Kosman Specialties". It was not cheap, about 400+ dollars, about 3 years ago.
But I liked the look of a stock wheel, Comstar, but widened. That money is not much if you like the wheel and realize getting a tire, wheel, swingarm, uni shock and calipers amongst parts needed for a conversion to some modern bike suspension ( plus front wheel, tire, and adaptation needed like spacers and the like unless purchasing corresponding modern bike forks ) ... would fetch.
Needed no adaptations, spacers, sprocket, nothing at all. Just a bolt on operation.
I think it looks great and performs even better than it looks.
The front wheel is also a Comstar, but a Honda CBX 1000 (pro link model) which is also same diameter as the stock Honda 750 wheel, but a tad wider. From stock 2.1 to 2.5 Does not sound much wider, bit it shows, and the tire (110-80-19) expands to its fullest, better than on the original 2 in wheel.
Best part, no adaptations needed, straight bolt on.